Hidden Kitchen, Paris

We know we can count on our friend Jacque to know what’s going on in the food scene of Paris. I can barely keep up with the stateside blogs I read, let alone add a bounty of blogs from Paris. I do read David Lebovitz frequently, but cannot keep up with all his posts. So, anyway, we trust Jacque.

Jacque and her husband Jim come to Paris frequently and have been coming for most of October for three years. They rent apartments from Paris Address. This year we were invited to share their two bedroom in the first. So, we’re here for 10 days. Lucky us! Style guides won’t let me use more than one exclamation mark there, but they would be deserved.

Jacque tried to get into Hidden Kitchen last year, but things didn’t work out. So when we were planning our trip she got us reservations well in advance. It’s called a private dining club and the couple, Braden & Laura, host it in their home. The table for 16 takes over their living room for a couple of evenings a week.

When we arrived, Laura greeted us, took our coats and gave us a glass of Champagne that had pomegranate floating in it with some vodka in there too. It was delicious. We chatted up the other people there. Over the coarse of the night we found there were several people born in Ohio. We are many.

The ten courses and wine pairings are to the right. The food was innovative, interesting and very good. Standout courses for me were the agnolotti with sea urchin butter and the next course, the salmon.

This special experience was made more special by the fact that it was one of the hosts’ last. They’re opening a wine bar and restaurant down the street. It hasn’t been an easy process, but they’re due to open the wine bar this week. We’ll certainly drop in if we can.

The Menu

Charred Onion w Wine Poached Medjul, Celery Root and Orange

2010 Dominae de Villargeau, 

Côteaux du Giennois

Red Cabbage Angliotti, 
Sea Urchin Butter, Mint, Caper

2009 Domaine La Soufrandise , 

Mâcon-Fuissé “le Ronté”

House Smoked Salmon, Cabbage,

Chilies, Buckwheat, Potato

2009 Domaine François Chidaine, 

Vouvray, “Les Argiles”

Palate Cleanser

Crispy Pork Belly
w Beet, Wild Rice, Endive and Olives

2010 Château de Coulaine, Chinon

Braised Beef Cheeks, Dok, 
Broccoli, Radish and Blue

2009 Domaine de l’Oratoire Saint Martin, Cairanne, “Réserve des Seigneurs”

Quince Sorbet 
w Chevre Custard and graham

2010 Château La Tour Grise, Ze Bulle

Chocolate & Chestnut Pave 

w Pears and candied Lemon

2006 Domaine La Tour Vieille, Banyuls


Restaurant Verjus
52, rue Richelieu
75001 Paris

Verjus Bar à vin
47, rue Montpensier
75001 Paris


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